The ancient Egyptians described their native country as "the black
land," recognizing it as a font of fertile abundance in contrast to the
harsh, unyielding deserts surrounding them. This fertility applied to
more than just agriculture. The inventiveness and creativity of ancient
Egypt still exerts influence and inspires awe today. The ancient
Egyptians were trailblazers in many fields, but particularly in the
field of beauty.
Pioneers in the arts of adornment, including cosmetics and tattooing,
they did not limit themselves to enhancement of only the body's natural
charms. The ancient Egyptians were also brilliant innovators in the
creation of jewelry. The ancient Egyptians loved ornamentation. Jewelry
was designed, crafted and worn with great care thought and care. In
their typical holistic fashion, fine jewelry was valued not only for
beauty but also for the magical and spiritual protection it provided
for its wearer. Did the concept of purely ornamental adornment exist
for the ancients? Did they make that distinction between amulets and
jewelry? Many anthropologists believe not.
Minerals and metals were identified with specific deities as well as
with specific spiritual and therapeutic values. Thus their words for
lapis lazuli and turquoise were synonymous with joy and delight,
respectively. Copper and malachite were identified with Hathor, gold
connected to the solar deity. The Egyptians did not confine themselves
to a limited selection of materials: a very wide variety of minerals
were crafted into jewelry including amethyst, cornelian, jasper, onyx
and quartz crystal. Today these stones are classified as semi-precious
versus precious gems like diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. How
or even whether the Egyptians classified these gems remains unknown:
the distinction between precious and semi-precious, for us, has largely
to do with scarcity and economic value. Connections between
availability and economic value did also exist in ancient Egypt but we
cannot assume that modern cultures and ancient Egypt share the same
perceptions of what was precious. For instance, during many periods of
Egyptian history, silver was valued more highly than gold, due to its
relative scarcity. Just as in today's world, silver holds less economic
value than gold, perhaps many of what are now considered semi-precious
gems may have been perceived as quite rare and valuable in old Egypt.
Many were obtained only with great effort and cost: lapis lazuli, which
held great spiritual significance for the Egyptians, was not obtained
locally but imported largely from what is now Afghanistan.
Yet as regards the production of jewelry, the Egyptians seemed to have
also been faced with some purely practical concerns: what to do should
a desired gemstone be unattainable, unavailable or perhaps
unaffordable? In typical ingenuous and innovative fashion, the
Egyptians invented the art of the fabulous fake. The ancient artisans
became so adept at crafting glass bead versions of precious stones that
it can be difficult to distinguish the mimics from authentic emeralds,
pearls and tigers-eye.
This innovation depended upon yet another revolutionary legacy from
ancient Egypt: the development of glass. Debate ranges among modern
scholars as to whether glass was initially manufactured in Egypt or in
Mesopotamia (or whether it arose in both nations).
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